This is your ProGardenBiz Newsletter! #6

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Just to keep it interesting we've added some additional
articles to this issue. Enjoy!

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ProGardenBiz Landscape & Garden Magazine for the
Green Industry

ProGardenBiz is an online landscape & garden magazine for
professional gardeners and landscape contractors doing
maintenance, irrigation, installation, planting, and
waterscapes.

Quote for today: "Loyalty isn't standing by someone when he's
right... that's good judgement. Loyalty is standing by someone
when he's wrong."
- Susan Estrich


Life's Quips...
"Experience is simply the name we give our mistakes."
- Oscar Wilde

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In this Issue:

- Marketing Tips for your New Business
- Irrigation Installation & Maintenance Time Savers
- Questions from our readers... and answers!
- Factoid - Pine tree's best friend is fire?
- How to Establish a New Lawn from Seed – In 10 Simple Steps
- Starting a Landscape or Gardening Business
- Contents Of the Current Issue of ProGardenBiz

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New this Week in ProGardenBiz:

Free Article Content for Web or Print
Websites that Work
The Plant Man
CAD - Keystrokes
Green Industry Survey


You can read these articles at:
http://www.progardenbiz.com
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Marketing Tips for your New Business

Article by Michelle Dunn

Marketing is one of the most important things you do for your
business. A common mistake new entrepreneurs make is thinking
that they only have to market their business in the beginning to
obtain new customers and get their business off the ground. You
have to market your business every day forever. Here are some
things you can do to help you in your marketing endeavor:

- Networking, join a chamber of commerce or rotary club
- Give speeches or seminars
- Volunteer at local events
- Create a Gift Certificate or Coupon
- Make your self newsworthy by holding a contest, sponsoring an
award etc.
- Ask existing customers for referrals
- Advertise in a local paper and on-line
- Write articles and columns
- Send out Direct mail in an unusual or lumpy package, include
a sample


One clever method is used in my area by a local landscape
company. They place their flyer in a small plastic bag (the
flyer is folded in quarters) along with a few small landscape
rocks and seal the bag. Then in the neighborhoods that they
already work, they drive down the streets and toss these bags
onto the driveways. It's fast, covers many homes, and because
they are unusual, the flyers get looked at and read!

The Federal Trade Commission has strict rules on when a
business can use the telephone to solicit customers. Violation
of these rules can result in a fine. The rules are:

- Call only between 8 a.m. and 9 p.m.
- Inform the customer that it's a sales call
- Describe the goods or services you're selling
- If there is a prize involved, explain the odds of winning
and that no purchase is required to win


Marketing can be a fun part of your business day, make sure to
do at least one thing to market your business every day. Don't
get discouraged; it can take months or even years to see
results from your marketing efforts. I recently obtained a new
customer, which was the result of my visiting their office over
a year ago and leaving a folder of my information!

About the Author:

Michelle Dunn is the author of "Starting Your Own Collection
Agency" and "MAD Collection Letters and Forms." Visit her site
at www.madagency.com or her online credit and collections
community at www.credit-and-collections.com.


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Irrigation Installation & Maintenance Time Savers

Article by Jack Stone

Over the last few years some clever people have come up with
some clever ideas to make your irrigation installation,
maintenance, and repair jobs a heck of a lot easier. Installing
and maintaining an irrigation system is one of the primary jobs
for any landscape contractor or grounds maintenance business.

First, there was PVC pipe, followed by electric valves and
controllers. Then someone invented electronic controllers and
some other guy invented the PVC pipe cutter. What more could
there be?

For the rest of this article see:
http://www.progardenbiz.com/currentissue/Feature1.html

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Q&A
Questions from our readers...

Q. We are contemplating adding a garden "pool" or pond to our
backyard. We live in hot & sunny south Florida.  I've looked at
the plastic "pond" linings at Home Depot.  Based on the fact
that the plastic garbage can can't last a year in the sun
without cracking, I don't think these are the way to go.  I'm
thinking we will have to build our own using concrete.  Does
anyone have any advice in regard to this? Know of any sites that
describe how to do such a thing?

catharine

A. The plastic pond liners work great.  The plastic is UV
stabilized and won't crack like your trash can.  If you really
want to do a concrete pond you need to consider a number of
areas.  If the pond has steep sides you will need to build a
form to hold the concrete in place until it sets.  A gentle
sloped pond can be done free-form.  Small ponds can be done
with concrete only, but larger ponds will need a wire frame to
help keep the concrete from cracking.  You can add color to the
concrete to give it a natural look.  After the concrete sets you
can coat it with Thompson's water seal to keep it from leaking
(concrete is porous and the water will seep through it without a
sealer).

Check out www.pondmarket.com and pondarama.com  There's also
regular columns on ponds in our online magazine ProGardenBiz. 
Good luck on your project.

Q. We are interested in bordering a vegetable garden with
railroad ties, but someone has told us that railroad ties are
treated with chemicals that will get into the soil and also into
the food.  Have you heard of this problem?

A. Railroad ties are treated with creosote to preserve them.
This can leech into the soil so I would not recommend using them
around a vegetable garden. There are other ways to treat wood to
preserve it, such as Thompson's Water Seal, but you should check
the label to see if it can be used around vegetables.

Another solution is to use a cedar timber. Pecky Cedar works
well. Cedar is naturally resistant to termites, but it will
still deteriorate from exposure to water and sunlight. It will,
however, last for many years.

Q. I really enjoyed the article in your first issue on Pocket
Gophers. Mr. Oliver was very thorough in his description of
traps and chemical controls, but I would be interested in
knowing what biological controls are available. I have heard of
a plant called "Gopher Purge". Is it effective at all?

T.G.
La Mirada, CA

A. We know of no scientific study to determine the effectiveness
of Gopher Purge, but many people have commented that it appears
to work. The only sure way would be to try it. Let us know what
happens.

Q. When mowing lawns do you recommend picking up the clippings
or leaving them?

A. It's better for the lawn to leave the clippings. It adds
valuable nutrients back to the soil instead of removing them.
If you use the proper mower, one that is designed to cut and
mulch, not bag (many are designed to do both) then the clippings
will be cut fine and the mowing job will appear the same as if
the clippings were bagged.


Have questions? We have answers. Send your questions to
editor@progardenbiz. Your questions are welcome and will be
answered by email and appear in our "Letters" or "Ask?"
columns.

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Factoid: Forest fires are pine trees best friends... well sort
of... The Jack Pine tree, as well as many other pine trees,
cannot reproduce without the help of a forest fire.

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How to Establish a New Lawn from Seed – In 10 Simple Steps

Article by Trey Rogers, Ph.D. - The Yard Doctor

One might think that establishing a new lawn is done by simply
placing seeds in the ground and watching them grow into
beautiful green turf.  If that were the case, then everyone
would have a showpiece lawn.  Here are 10 easy steps that will
transform that soil into a lush, lavish lawn.

Bear in mind that establishing a yard from seed is a holistic
process – sort of like brewing a cup of coffee.  If you take
these steps out of order (or omit one), your chances of success
will dwindle.

The following steps are for establishing a new lawn from
scratch.  If your lawn is already established and you just need
to fill in thin or bare spots, skip the first few steps (with
the possible exception of step #1).

Soil test– Have your yard's soil tested at least a month prior
to seeding.  The test results will determine your fertilizer,
lime and soil amendment needs for steps 4,5 and 6.  The
Cooperative Extension Service in your state will conduct a soil
test for a nominal fee

Persistent weed control– Apply a non-selective herbicide
(glyphosate or Scott's RoundupÒ) to the yard about two weeks
before you start seeding.  This herbicide will eliminate weeds,
like quackgrass, that can't be controlled by regular selective herbicides.  You might need two applications, spaced 10 days
apart, to control weeds deeply embedded in the soil.

Rough grading– Get out the mini tractor and move soil around to
your liking if you need to do some leveling, landscaping, etc. 
Remove any stones you find.  Try not to work when the soil is
too wet or dry as this will harm the soil structure.  A good
rule of thumb is to squeeze a fistful of soil.  If water comes
out, then the soil is too wet to work.

Lime– Save time by combining steps 4,5 and 6.  The outcome of
your soil test will determine which of these steps is needed. 
Lime is used to raise the soil's acidity level.  You will need
to add about 100 pounds per 1,000 square feet if the soil's pH
is 5.5 or lower.  Spread the lime and disk it in.

Basic fertilizer– If the soil test shows a phosphorous or
potassium deficiency, add fertilizer that is high in one or both
of these ingredients.  Follow the rate recommendations from your
soil test.

Soil amendments– Depending on what the soil test reveals, you
may need to amend your soil with peat, sand, another topsoil,
etc.  If adding a different soil type or sand, make sure that
your final mixture won't be some form of concrete.  It will be
well worth the effort to consult an expert.

Finish grade – Prepare a good seedbed by removing any stones
and old grass clumps.  Add soil in low spots to ensure constant
surface drainage (settle the surface by watering, if possible).

Starter fertilizer– Place a starter fertilizer down at the rate recommended on the label.  A starter fertilizer typically has a
higher phosphorous rate and more soluble nitrogen than
fertilizers designed for mature lawns.

Seed– A seeding rate of 10 to 15 seeds per square inch will give
the yard the best chance to grow nice healthy plants.  It may
not look like enough, but it is plenty.  Make sure the seed has
good soil contact so it can easily absorb water to start the
germination process.  You can accomplish this with a dry roller
for big yards or the flat back edge of a rake for smaller areas.

Mulch– Applying mulch to the newly seeded area will help ensure germination, control erosion and reduce water use.  Many
products can be used as mulch.  Straw makes the most effective
mulching material, but be sure it doesn't contain weeds that
could take root with the new grass.  Do not use peat as mulch –
it competes with soil and seed for water and nutrients.

Here are some other considerations for establishing a new lawn:

Timing– When is the best time to seed?  It's kind of like
fishing.  Fishing is always good … the catching is a different
story.  There are definitely better windows of time than others
for seeding grass.  For cool-season grasses, the best times are
spring and fall; for warm-season grasses, seed in the summer. 
Your chances for success are better the earlier you are in the
window.

Watering– Once the seeds take in water, the irreversible process
of germination begins, so it's very important to continue
watering once you've started.  After the grass germinates (time
to germination for grass species range from three to 21 days),
increase the amount of water and the time between watering
intervals.

 Fertilizing – New grass will likely use up the starter
fertilizer within the first month.  To keep the grass growing,
apply another half pound to a pound per 1,000 square feet after
30 days and then again at 50 to 60 days.  Make sure the yard is
dry before applying fertilizer to prevent footprints from
appearing in the soil, which will create an uneven surface.

 Weed control – Using a herbicide called siduron at step 8 will
prevent crabgrass in the spring.  You can find this product and fertilizer in the same bag. Do not use any other herbicides on
newly seeded areas as these products will keep both the grass
and crabgrass from germinating.  Wait until after the second or
third mowing, and then use a herbicide such as MSMA, which is
found on the label of several weed control products.

Once grass has sprouted, one of the best products to use is
quinclorac (DriveÒ) because it is the only product that controls crabgrass without harming the new grass. However, it is only
available through lawn care professionals.

Mowing– Mow as soon as you can because it encourages the grass
to spread. Follow the one-third rule; remove just one-third of
the grass plant when mowing.  For best results, set your mower
at three inches for cool season grasses and two inches for warm
season grasses.

For tips from The Yard Doctor see:

http://www.progardenbiz.com/issues/v1issue2/Lawn-Care-Tips-Yard-Doctor.html

Get practical tips for yard care from Briggs & Stratton’s Yard
Doctor. He provides timely information on specific areas of yard
care, including watering, fertilizing, weeding and more. Go to http://www.yarddoctor.com/display/router.asp?DocID=47090 and
sign up today!

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Starting a Landscape or Gardening Business:
ProGardenBiz, a landscape and garden magazine for the Green
Industry is your online resource for starting and operating a
business as a landscape contractor or landscape and lawn
maintenance gardener. Related fields covered by ProGardenBiz
are irrigation installation and maintenance, sprinklers -
repair and maintenance, waterscapes, water features, and ponds.
You will also find information on plants, plant identification,
trees and tree maintenance, and many other topics that span the
Green Industry.

If the answers you seek are not readily found, then drop us an
email at: editor@progardenbiz. Your questions are welcome and
will be answered by email and appear in our "Letters" or "Ask?"
columns.
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Contents Of the Current Issue of ProGardenBiz
http://www.progardenbiz.com
Volume 1, Issue 3
Feature Articles

- Being a Pro: A Series on Professionalism: Lawn Maintenance
Equipment, Buying & Using to make a Profit


Volume 1, Issue 2
Feature Articles

-Irrigation Time Savers
-Install a Water Garden
-Don't Get Ripped Off
-Creative Railroad Ties
-Innovative Irrigation Tool: The Chain Saw!
-I Survived the Landscape Industry Trade Show
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You can post questions, comments, thoughts, ideas and more to
our email discussion group at: pgbdiscussion@yahoogroups.com

I look forward to hearing from you!

Thank you,

Steve Fleming
Publisher
ProGardenBiz