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Thursday, May 12, 2005
Posted
11:10 AM
by Steve
(3) comments
You, Too, Can be a Salesperson C.J. Hayden, MCC I am not a sales and marketing guru. I've written two books on marketing and taught thousands of people how to sell themselves, but really, I don't know more about sales and marketing than most of you. What I know how to do is talk to people, all kinds of people -- restaurant owners and waiters, CEO's and receptionists, entrepreneurs and kindergarten teachers. I don't try to sell these people anything; we just have a conversation. But sales happen as a result. In my book "Get Clients Now!" I define marketing as telling people what you do over and over. That's part of the secret right there. I've seen too many business owners fail because they simply don't speak up about their business. Or else they tell someone once what they do for a living, and then think they never need to mention it again. But there's another piece of the sales and marketing puzzle that often gets left out. When you talk to someone about your business, you need to be direct, authentic, and unattached to the outcome. Clients and students often ask me questions like, "What do I say when I call Mr. Big to find out if he's ready to buy?" They're shocked when they hear my answer: "Hello, Mr. Big, have you decided to purchase our product?" Or maybe the question is how to follow up with someone you met at last night's event who expressed some interest in your service. My suggestion is to say: "When we spoke last night, you seemed interested in my services, and I'd like to continue our conversation." What do you do when you fear that the client doubts your qualifications? How about: "You seem a bit unsure of my qualifications to do the job, and I'd like to address that. What are your concerns?" These are all conversations. You ask a question; they answer. They ask a question; you answer. It's like a friendly tennis match -- all you have to do is keep the ball in the air, and nothing is at stake. But that's the catch, isn't it? You think there's a lot at stake. What if you don't get the contract, the client, the money? So you make the conversation overly significant, put on your marketing face and your selling voice, speak someone else's words... and the result is anything but direct and authentic. What impact does this have on the person you're speaking with? The opposite of a direct approach is an indirect one: devious, underhanded, sneaky (check your thesaurus). The opposite of authentic is inauthentic: phony, fraudulent, insincere. Isn't this exactly what you have always been afraid of -- sounding like a used car salesman or telemarketer reading a script? Scripts are for rehearsals. In a meeting or on the phone, keep some talking points in front of you, but don't read. Every word should be one you would use in normal conversation -- use instead of utilize; fix instead of rectify; help instead of facilitate. Get to the point quickly, and tell the truth about it. "I'm just calling to introduce myself," is not only an ineffective pproach, it's a lie. Show a sincere interest in people by asking questions about their goals and problems. When you see a place where your business can help, don't hesitate to say so. Be respectful of people's time and really listen to what they say. Respond to what you heard instead of continuing to the next item on your agenda. Don't be afraid to toot your own horn while staying true to who you are. But these are just tips for changing your behavior. The real key is in your attitude. If you can recognize that being indirect, inauthentic, or attached to the outcome is causing you to lose sales instead of make them, you'll have a powerful incentive to do things differently. C.J. Hayden is the author of Get Clients NOW! Thousands of business owners and salespeople have used her simple sales and marketing system to double or triple their income. Get a free copy of "Five Secrets to Finding All the Clients You'll Ever Need" at http://www.getclientsnow.com
Friday, April 29, 2005
Posted
11:36 AM
by Steve
(0) comments
The Plant Man by Steve Jones www.landsteward.org Trees need water... but don’t overdo it! Gardeners and landscapers have one thing in common with their “big brother” the farmer: complaining about the weather. Ask any farmer about rainfall and you’ll be told that it is nowhere near enough or it is way too much. Unlike Goldilocks’ third bowl of porridge at the three bears’ house, it is never “just right!” At this time of year, we try to remind ourselves about the old adage that April showers bring May flowers... not to mention shrubs, bushes and trees. So with April finally behind us, we can assess whether or not our landscapes are actually getting the “just right” amount of water... for once. Too much water can be as bad (or worse) than not enough water for your trees and shrubs. After all, if your soil is turning dusty from a dry spell, you can always turn to your trusty garden hose. But drying out waterlogged soil is a whole lot harder! Here are a few quick watering tips for you to bear in mind... When you’re watering trees, remember that much of the water will be absorbed by the roots at or beyond the drip line, not at the base of the trunk. The root system of a mature tree can spread out 1 to 3 times the width of the canopy, so that’s the most efficient area to give your trees a drink. When it comes to newly planted or young trees that have yet to attain much of a canopy, water needs to be applied closer to the trunk area. New trees need more water than established trees. As the tree matures and the canopy spreads, widen the watering area. Once a tree is established, reduce the frequency of watering. Best time to water: Early morning or evening, so that less of the water will evaporate in the midday sunshine. If you’re watering in the evening, avoid watering the foliage as this can promote the formation of mildew and fungus. Don’t flood ‘em! If you pour on too much water too fast, you’re only adding to the problem. You can cause erosion and compact the soil, as well as wasting valuable water. Never apply water faster than it can be absorbed by the soil. Allow the soil to dry somewhat between watering. This allows oxygen to be absorbed more easily. Use a soil probe or your own version consisting of a thin metal rod. If you can push the probe fairly easily into the soil but meet resistance at a depth of about 4 to 6 inches, it’s time to reapply the water. Bear in mind that this a rule of (green) thumb. If your nursery gave you specific watering instructions, be sure to follow those. Applying a layer of mulch under the tree’s canopy will keep the soil cool and help to avoid evaporation. It will also keep you from mowing too close to the delicate roots and trunk where the whirling blades can wreak serious havoc! You can more comprehensive information about watering trees at http://ag.arizona.edu/cochise/mg/wateringplants.htm and you can easily click on a link to that site when you find this column archived under the “Plant Man” heading at my Web site www.landsteward.org Your specific needs can vary depending on your soil type, location and weather conditions. I’ll be happy to provide some personal advice on the kind of trees and shrubs that will work best for you and your landscape. Send me a few details at steve@landsteward.org and I’ll offer some ideas. And now for a reader question... QUESTION: “Last year I planted Red Sedum. What should I do this year to prepare the plant for this growing season.” – Louise Kraybill ANSWER: To prep your sedum for the new growing season, cut back to the ground any old growth. Do not cut any new growth. At this time make a light application of organic fertilizer and then put down fresh mulch (up to 3 inches of organic compost is best) around, but not on the plants. Water until the soil is totally moist and water weekly during summer if there is little/no rainfall. This should get your plants off to a great start. The Plant Man is here to help. Send your questions about trees, shrubs and landscaping to steve@landsteward.org and for resources and additional information, or to subscribe to Steve’s free e-mailed newsletter, visit www.landsteward.org
Posted
11:30 AM
by Steve
(2) comments
Are You Ready to Own and Operate a Business? By Kathleen Gage How often has someone thought of starting a business based solely on the fact they think it will be easier than working for someone else. Fact is, owning and operating a business can be one of the most grueling experiences you will have. Granted, there are many advantages, but unless someone has actually run a business there is much to consider before you make that decision. The following information will help you operate a business more professionally. With today's technology there is no reason you cannot have the look of a large company even if you are working off your kitchen table. If you have a home based business it is suggested you have a room dedicated to your business. This helps you to stay focused and there are some major tax benefits in doing this. PROFESSIONALISM -Choose voicemail rather than an answering machine. There is a major difference in the perception to the caller. -Toll free number. Check with your local telephone company to find out if this is available to you if you will have a lot of clients/customers from outside your calling area. -Have a separate business phone line. You do not appear very professional if your children answer the phone. -Email. Avoid using free services due to limitations and perceptions. -Dedicated fax line. A small business will appear as such if the fax number and phone number are the same. RUNNING AN OFFICE -Stay organized. The more you can keep yourself organized the easier it will be to respond to customer's requests in a timely fashion. -Color file folders. A great way to organize your file system. Each color indicates a category. -Dedicated file cabinets. Separate personal papers from business. -Form letters. Don't reinvent the wheel with every letter you write. Keep form letters on a disc or your hard drive. FINANCIAL END of running the business. There will be many costs to running a business. The following are some of the investments you will need to consider. -Medical insurance -Separate phone lines -Taxes -Marketing material -Office supplies -Products -Service fees -Accountant -Financial Planner -Bookkeeper -Keep excellent records -Keep all receipts -Advertising THINGS YOU WILL NEED IF YOU WANT TO STAY COMPETATIVE -Business license -Incorporate -Bookkeeper -Financial planner -Marketing material -Business cards -Letterhead -Envelopes -Folders -Letters of referral -Bio sheet -Product or service sheet -Web site PROFESSIONAL ORGANIZATIONS -Which ones are most beneficial for you to join? To get the biggest benefit from any organizations you need to get involved. Use the monthly meetings to network. -Dues and fees. How much are the annual dues and cost for monthly meetings?. Figure that in your budget. -Conventions. Are there any conventions you need to go to? What is the time and cost investment? Talk to others who have gone to find out if it will be worth the investment. -Network. Most of your business will come from referrals. QUALIFYING THE BUYER -Who is my customer? -Do they have a budget for my product or service their budget? -Do I want to work with them? PAPERWORK -Invoices -Contracts -Service agreements -Letters MANAGE PROFESSIONAL IMAGE -Responding to requests by providing what the customer needs. If you are not the person for the job, who can you refer (that's why networking is so important) -Follow-up. Do your follow-up in a timely fashion -Develop a good relationship with the client -Return calls as soon as possible -Send information in a timely fashion -Priority mail is often less expensive than first class. And it can be more impressive to your client. -Keep in touch after the fact. A mistake a lot of people make in doing business is they do a job for a client and then seem to forget the client. It is easier to get repeat business than it is to find new business, and yet, so often business owners and salespeople (which is what you are if you own a business) will look for the new customer and forget about their existing clientele Kathleen Gage is a keynote speaker, author and business advisor specializing in marketing and promotions. Access Gage's's FREE eBook Street Smarts Marketing On the Internet at http://www.streetsmartsmarketing.com/free-ebook.htm
Friday, April 22, 2005
Posted
7:56 AM
by Steve
(1) comments
Green Thumb Gifts: Beyond Gardening Gloves by A. Heath Ahh, spring! It has sprung! Gardeners (and budding gardeners - no pun intended) have begun the quest for a weedless lawn, or a bountiful garden. But if you're looking for gifts for someone with a green thumb (or someone with green thumb envy), consider the situation first. Some people think of gardening as a chore. Others see it as relaxing. Some will see it as exercise, and still others consider it art. Some people have the magic touch in the garden, while others couldn't grow mold if they tried! This is important when considering gardening gifts. You need to know if you should give something to make gardening easier, more fulfilling, more challenging, or more fun. For those people who see it as a chore, gardening just adds more items onto the never-ending to-do list. In this case, you need to consider gardening gifts that will make these outdoor chores easier, faster, and less of a hassle. Power tools and storage & organization aids usually fall into this category, along with the ever popular lawn tractor. A leaf blower/vacuum can make clean-up a breeze (again - no pun intended). The same can be said for a pressure washer. Heavy jobs are made easier with a wheelbarrow or yard cart. And organizing a collection of garden tools is simple with a storage bench or shed. Other ideas include a convenient watering timer. If your gift recipient enjoys gardening as a hobby, you'll want to take a look at gardening gifts that can bring more fulfillment or enjoyment to the outdoors. They would benefit from a magazine subscription like "Garden Design", or a gardening book ("Front Yard Gardens: Growing More Than Grass") to help cultivate their ideas. Garden enthusiasts like to sit back and enjoy their hard work, so patio furniture and accessories would also be a great gift. And let's not forget the gardener wanna-be: those whom we love that just can't seem to keep that plant alive - whose thumb isn't really green at all! Start off with a how-to book like "Lawn Care For Dummies" or "Taylor's Encyclopedia of Garden Plants", and complement that with some basic gardening tools or accessories. These types of gifts would also be great for first-time home buyers. For the gardener who already "has it all", you might want to consider something a little more unique, like an indoor grow light, solar stepping stones, or a cascading fountain. And if you're just not sure what to get, there's always a gift certificate or gift card. For more gardening gift ideas, visit http://www.the-gift-wizard.com/gardening-gifts.html ABOUT THE AUTHOR A. Heath is a gift researcher for http://www.the-gift-wizard.com
Tuesday, April 19, 2005
Posted
2:42 PM
by Steve
(0) comments
Installing a Brick or Paver Walkway The key to installing a Brick or Paver Walkway is to first properly prepare the area where the bricks/pavers are to be installed. The area should be dug out at least a foot down, removing all topsoil and clay soil. Once the area has been dug down, 3/4" gravel stone should be laid in and tamped down tightly. Then sand, or stone dust should be spread over the gravel. Again the sand/stone dust should be tamped down. Stone dust is preferred. Now that you have a stable base, place a 1" pipe or ledger board the length of the walkway on either side of the walkway. Then using a flatedge, e.g. a 2"x4" slide it over the two lengths of the pipe/ledger board. In doing this you will create a level surface area to lay the bricks/pavers. Now place on the level sand/stone dust strips of plastic brick borders. Install a run on both sides of the prepared area. These strips will act as your walkway border and help to maintain the integrity and shape of the walkway. You can get these plastic strip borders at most Home Improvement stores such as Home Depot or Lowes. The strips should be anchored down with 12" galvinized nails. You should sink these nails into the ground and through the strips every foot. Once this is done, you can then begin to lay the bricks/pavers. There are many patterns you can lay. I particularly like the Herring Bone pattern. The key to laying the bricks/pavers is to ensure that they interlock with each other. Always stagger adjacent rows of bricks by 1/2 of a brick to interlock them. This will again help maintain the integrity of the walkway. Inevitably bricks/pavers will need to be cut or split when building the walkway. Unless you want to buy or rent an expensive wetsaw, I would suggest purchasing a simple brick/paver splitter. It is basically a chisel with a wide end that is the width of the bricks/pavers. To actually cut/split the brick/paver, lay it in a bed of sand and place the chisel at a 75% angle over the spot where you want to break the brick. Then using a hammer strike the butt end of the chisel firmly. You may need to do this a couple of times. You may also want to flip the brick/paver over and strike the other side of the brick using the hammer and chisle. Within one or two strikes the brick/paver should break cleanly. If your walkway has curves you will need to buy/rent a wetsaw. After installing the bricks, build up the outside edges with additional sand, and then shovel in the topsoil and pack down firmly. Finally, spread stone dust over the new walkway and sweep into the cracks. Repeat this process a couple of times to ensure the cracks are fully filled. This will complete the interlocking of the bricks and help to eliminate any weed growth. Just add grass seed to the outside edges and you should have a beautiful entrance to your home within a couple of weeks. About the Author: Over the past 20+ years Mr. Donovan has been involved with building homes and additions to homes. His projects have included: building a vacation home, building additions and garages on to existing homes, and finishing unfinished homes. Mr. Donovan's formal education and profession have been as an Electrical Engineer and Marketing Manager. Email Mr. Donovan at me_donovan@comcast.net or visit either his website http://www.homeadditionplus.com or blog site http://www.homeaddition.blogspot.com. Mark J. Donovan www.homeadditionplus.com www.HomeAddition.blogspot.com
Wednesday, April 13, 2005
Posted
3:16 PM
by Steve
(3) comments
April Gardening Tips One of the nicest months in the southwest. (if the wind is not blowing) You may plant just about anything such as tomato plants, fruit trees shade trees, evergreen shrubs, flowering shrubs, bulbs etc. It is also the month that garden centers usually are fully stocked, at least in the southwest. Fertilize your bermuda or warm season grasses at this time if you have not done so in late March. You may also fertilize your fescue, rye, or bluegrass (cool season) lawns if it has been more than 6 weeks since you've last fertilized. 16-8-8 with iron, zinc, and sulphur works well if you do not have a problem with weeds. This can be used on both warm season and cool season grasses at this time of year. If you have oleander, now is the time to cut back any winter damaged leaves or stems it may have suffered from the cold. Shear oleander if you want them to look full and bushy or you may selectively prune branches to give it a more open and air look. You may also prune them into multi-trunked trees, which look quite picturesque when mature. Lantana plants may be just coming out of their dormant period at this time. It is best to pull away any mulch that may be around the base of the crown, to allow the sun to heat up the soil and allow it to "wake up" from it's winter sleep. Don't let these plants fool you, they may look dead, but 9 times out of 10 they are just dormant. They need quite a bit of heat to start growing. Be patient! Roses may should still be in stock at this time and take well to being planted at this time. For existing roses, fertilizing is key. I recommend a water soluable fertizier such as Peters Tm 20-20-20 every other week, for healthy foliage and multiple blooms. In addition to this use a soil acidifier such as Ironite Tm or Grow More Tm organic chelated iron. These products help keep foliage dark green and give flowers more vibrant colors. Feed all trees, and shrubs at this time. There are many product to choose from. It is best to look for a product that is easiest for you to use. Most plant will respond to just about any kind of fertilizer as long as it is applied correctly. Stop by and we can help take any confusion out of this situation, or you can e-mail or call. 505-523-1520 Thanks from Gary Guzman Lots of new stuff at: guzmansgreenhouse.com
Tuesday, April 12, 2005
Posted
6:00 PM
by Steve
(0) comments
Can you recommend specific honing or sharpening tools for keeping the blades of pruners, loppers, and scuffle hoes sharp? I have seen Arkansas oilstones, synthetic sharpening "stones", pruner sharpeners, etc. What is the best all-purpose tool and do you recommend coarse, medium or fine stones or a combination of stones? ********************** To briefly answer your question, use a whetstone to sharpen pruners and fine gardening knives (such as Japanese gardening knives). Large-bladed shears and loppers, shovels, hoes, etc., can be sharpened with a medium-grit mill bastard file, and finshed with a finer grit file or whetstone.
Posted
5:55 PM
by Steve
(0) comments
The Benefits Of Incorporating Your Business Connecticut Secretary http://www.connecticutsecretary.com/ What do General Motors, Microsoft, AT&T and many other major businesses in America have in common? They?re corporations. A corporation is a separate legal entity that functions separate and apart from its shareholders or owners. You can incorporate on your own without an attorney, although it wouldn?t hurt to seek legal advice. And you can incorporate in your home state or any other state of your choosing. More than half a million business entities have their legal home in business-friendly Delaware, including more than 50 percent of all U.S. publicly-traded companies and 58 percent of the Fortune 500. Nevada, New York, California, Arizona and Florida are also magnets for businesses wanting to incorporate. Protection Against Personal Liability Incorporating offers a variety of legal and tax advantages. For one, it?s one of the best ways a business owner can protect his or her personal assets. As a separate legal entity, a corporation is responsible for its own debts. Shareholders of a corporation are generally not liable for the obligations of the corporation. Therefore, creditors of a corporation can seek payment from the assets of a corporation, but not the assets of its shareholders. This means that business owners can conduct business without risking their homes or other personal property. Tax Advantages Many businesses choose to incorporate for tax advantages. Corporate profits aren?t subject to Social Security, Medicare, workers compensation and other taxes, which adds up to 15.3 percent in taxes. An individual proprietor would need to pay all of these taxes, commonly referred to as ?self-employment taxes? on all income earned by the business. But with a corporation, only salaries are subject to these taxes. C-corporations provide even greater tax flexibility when it comes to profits. By simply dividing income between the corporation and the shareholders, businesses can save thousands of dollars each year on taxes. With a C-corporation, the first $50,000 in profits is taxed at only 15 percent -- plus, there are no Social Security or Medicare taxes. If you incorporate in a tax-free state like Nevada or Delaware, there are no state income taxes. Therefore, if you?re in the 28-percent tax bracket and shift $50,000 of your personal income into a corporation, you could save about $14,000 per year. (This figure includes the money saved by not paying social security and Medicare taxes). Corporations also enjoy the ability to deduct business operating losses. In fact, they have very few restrictions on operating and capital losses. You can generally carry losses back three years forward for 15 years. But sole proprietorships have stricter rules. They?re also subject to a higher probability of a tax audit if there are losses. Speaking of audits, that brings us to another benefit of incorporating. Corporate returns have fewer "red flags" than individual returns. Consequently, the IRS conducts fewer audits on corporations than individuals. Fringe Benefits and Other Deductions Corporations also enjoy a variety of fringe benefits and other deductions. A corporation can set up a 401(k), for example, that would allow you to exclude a higher amount of income than a regular IRA. And employee savings may also be doubled with a corporate matching program. Corporations also can deduct 100 percent of the health insurance premiums paid on behalf of an owner-employee. Additionally, a corporation can deduct other expenses like automobile insurance, education benefits and life insurance. But for sole proprietors, these expenses are subject to strict limitations (if deductible at all) and can be "red flags" that trigger an audit. --------------------------------------------------------------------- Copyright 2005 Kate Smalley, Connecticut Secretary Freelance Secretarial and Transcription Services http://www.connecticutsecretary.com mailto:kms@connecticutsecretary.com
Thursday, April 07, 2005
Posted
9:30 AM
by Steve
(0) comments
Gardening in Our Communities and Schools
By: Yvonne Savio
Great things happen when a community or school garden gets started. Neighbors and passers-by exclaim joy and relief that "something's finally happening" to a blighted or underused plot of land. Order comes out of chaos. Weeds are displaced by fragrant and rich-brown, newly turned soil. Plots of tiny plants in neat rows or groupings take the place of the jumble of wild things. Colorful flowering vines and roses climb unattractive chain-link fencing.
Camaraderie From inside the fence, even more wonderful changes are happening. Individual, isolated gardeners share their techniques and concerns and joys, learning from one another. Exhilaration from exercise and fresh air and jokes floating across garden pathways invigorate everyone's spirits. Everyday frustrations evaporate or are worked out subconsciously as the soil is tilled, amendments incorporated, pests hand-plucked, and seedlings nurtured. Harvest parties become potlucks of different cultures and cooking flavors. Excess broccoli or lettuce or zucchini is put to use in a multitude of recipes, literally from appetizer to dessert, all shared.
Lessons Learned In school gardens, math is used in counting seeds, forming raised beds, and planting seedlings. Science is part of caterpillar-to-butterfly transformation, geography is introduced in microclimates and soil texture. Social sciences and communication are involved in communal decisions about what to plant, where, and dealing with problems. Language is involved in learning different terms for plants and insects. Ethnic interaction results from growing different ethnic crops and preparing and tasting potluck dishes.
Exercise is a benefit of digging and bending and hauling. Art is explored in the scarecrows built and posters painted. Poetry and personal self-expression is explored in the journals written and observations made. People talk, people listen. They observe what's happening in their world, and they participate in its development. They determine its future by creating its present. What better way to "grow" our current and upcoming generations of citizen gardeners!
Growing Bulb Onions
Feed bulb onions with a 10-10-10 fertilizer to encourage bulbing. Sets that send up seed stalks instead of forming large bulbs were perhaps not sufficiently dormant when they were planted, or they were larger than dime-size and going to bolt soon anyway. To delay bolting, snap off the stalk at the base.
Pluck Strawberry Blooms
Pluck off strawberry blossoms through May, or whenever the warm weather has settled in for good, to concentrate the plant's first real burst of fruiting energy into large, sweet berries rather than small tart ones. Unless, of course, you're desperately waiting for that very first berry, even if it is tart.
Start Herbs From Seed
Herbs to start from seed include anise, basil, chervil, chives, cilantro (coriander), dill, fennel, lavender, marjoram, oregano, parsley, and savory. Transplant mint, rosemary, sage, tarragon, and thyme (these don't come true from seed). Herbs make great landscaping plants, as well. Chives add attractive, spear-like foliage among blooming plants. Rosemary and wooly thyme make attractive, drought-tolerant, trouble-free ground covers.
Plant Citrus and Avocado Trees
Citrus and avocado trees do best when they're planted from late this month through May, as the weather warms up. For the best protection from cold weather and frost, choose a southwest exposure that's protected from the wind. Plant them on a mound or in a raised bed so water drains away from the roots. Rub suckers off trunks as they appear. Tape together or remove broken branches. Paint trunks and large limbs with a matte-finish, off-white interior latex paint mixed half and half with water to prevent sunscald.
Plant Summer-Blooming Bulbs
Plant summer-blooming bulbs, corms, and tubers, including acidanthera, agapanthus, tuberous begonias, caladiums, calla lilies, canna lilies, dahlias, gladiolus, hemerocallis, tuberous iris, ixias, tigridias, tuberoses, and watsonias. Repeat plantings through May for continuous bloom through the summer. If you still have some unplanted spring-blooming bulbs that are firm and solid, plant them immediately in rich soil. They'll probably not bloom this year, but they'll develop further and bloom next year. If not planted, they'll shrivel away to nothing. These leftover bulbs also can be potted up for forcing. Place them in the refrigerator for eight to ten weeks, keeping the soil moist but not soggy. They should bloom after another three weeks in a brightly lit area.
Web Finds - Common Ground Garden Program
The University of California Cooperative Extension Los Angeles County Common Ground Garden Program has two online publications to help people develop thriving community and school gardens. Other articles include monthly garden tips.
Books - A Guide for Starting Children's Gardens
Children's Gardens: A Field Guide for Teachers, Parents, and Volunteers is a book that helps teach all the academic subjects through hands-on activities in the garden. It's published by the University of California Cooperative Extension Los Angeles County Common Ground Garden Program, which has 20 years of experience establishing gardens on school campuses. It covers gardening basics, specific instructional activities, and lots of resources to help make school gardening easy, even for the non-gardener. The book costs $12 plus $3.50 shipping. To order, call (323) 260-3348, fax (323) 881-0067, e-mail gjmitche@ucdavis.edu, or visit: http://celosangeles.ucdavis.edu/garden/
Content provided by the National Gardening Association
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